We’re Entering Enemy Lands
Bravely traveling across the Scotland - England border into enemy territory and visiting many great locations such as Bamburgh Castle, Lindisfarne, Roman Forts & Jedburgh Abbey to help create new and exciting Day tours from Edinburgh
Experience Scotland’s Wild
Tour Guide and Head Experience Creator
I really do have the best job!
Being able to explore all of these amazing places across Scottish Highlands and Lowlands and now north England, finding new stops for our tours which are currently being developed for 2023 is really… well I don’t really know what words to use. Spectacular, Amazing, Outstanding, maybe all of them
WHAT?! I’M GOING WHERE?!
Was my reaction when John asked me to travel south and cross the boundary.
But off I went, like a brave Highland Warrior, south into enemy territory, to face the Romans on English soil. I explored northeast of England and ventured into one of their outstanding National Parks, although, as you will see from some of the pictures, one particular day I couldn’t see much!
St Abbs or New Asgard movie location for the Avengers Fans
Crossing the Scottish Border
I travelled down from Edinburgh through the southeast coast of Scotland towards the border. The sun was splitting the skies all the way down, passing by the likes of Tantallon Castle (previously owned by the Red Douglases, the junior of the two lines), and St Abbs Nature Reserve (now twinned with New Asgard!).
My heart began to race as I got closer and closer to the inevitable doom, thinking to myself “Why has John sent me on such a mission?! What did he know about these places that I didn’t?
“What did I do to deserve this torture?!”
Tentatively, I crossed the border…"
It was still a lovely day, and I began to settle down and enjoy the beautiful views out of the east coast. The target was Berwick-upon-Tweed, which is where my accommodation would be for that evening.
The following day is when the real adventures begin!
Exploring Lindisfarne & the Holy Island
Lindisfarne & the Holy Island have been on my bucket list for some time, ever since I saw it in a photograph by one of my favourite photographers. The history as well is what drew me to the island, steeped in Viking raids and the centre of Christianity all on this tiny island.
Lindisfarne Priory
Getting there is even more interesting. The causeway that connects the island to the mainland is underwater for half the day, so timing is key. traveling past all the warning signs made me feel quite uneasy at first, but knowing I had a six-hour window before the next tide came in did settle my nerves.
After parking, I got out and started exploring. The Priory was the first stop I traveled too, with a lovely walk through the beautiful little village of Lindisfarne where the locals are very friendly and welcoming.
Once the center of Christianity, the Priory building we see today was constructed around the 12th century, though, there’s been buildings there for many years prior to that. You can feel how old this place is when walking around the ancient ruins of a once powerful and grand structure.
Lindisfarne Castle
Off in the distance, I can see my next destination, which is Lindisfarne Castle. I retrace my steps back to the village and follow the signposts all the way to the castle. It’s a very pleasant place to be, especially when the suns shinning, which as we know, always happens in Scotland.
Aloft on a mound of volcanic rock, Lindisfarne castle commands the coastline like an old Roman centurion still awaiting their orders. Built around 1550, this strategically positioned castle served as a guardian and protector of the port from raiding Scots who were brave enough to venture this far south (just like me really).
From here, looking further south, I could see Bamburgh. That was my next stop and got very excited at the thought. So from the castle, I walked around the coastline of the island, soaking up the views and sunshine and ventured off the island (thankfully I didn’t have to swim off).
Visiting Bamburgh Castle
Bamburgh Castle and the Sand Dunes
Heading south (that sounds like a failed attempt at a band name) along the B1342 road, taking in the stunning landscape and surrounding area,
when I turn a corner in the road and… POW! Bamburgh castle hits you in the face like a Jim Watt combination
(a famous Scottish lightweight champion boxer).
Rushing with excitement, the parking attendant and ticket office staff didn’t even have to ask for my money when I went to pay for the entry fee. I just ran in shouting “Take my money!”.
Currently owned by the Watson-Armstrong family (who purchased the castle in 1894) the castle was restored by engineering genius William George Armstrong at a price of £1 million, the equivalent of £133 million today. But I’d say it was worth every penny.
The archaeological finds which are on display in the castle took my breath away. One piece, in particular, was named the Bamburgh Beast. At first, it didn’t look like much, just a tiny piece of solid gold. But when you look closely, you’ll see the incredible detail depicting a mythical beast that dates back to 650AD!
Bamburgh Castle from the Beach
It was immediately clear that Bamburgh was home to powerful Kings of the old Kingdom of Northumbria, and was made even more so by the finding of the Gifting Stool. An intricately carved throne that was used by Kings to bestow gifts to their chosen warriors. The Gifting Stool dates back to around 800AD. That’s over 1200 year old!
Walking through the castle rooms and halls, you can tell this was a place for hosting important guests before and after the current family arrived. The Great Hall feels like you’ve entered a Royal residence from the early 1700s, and each room has a unique little responsibility for that high society lifestyle.
Venturing through and grabbing some lunch from the lovely cafe located in the castle grounds, I walk along its walls and battlements, gazing out to Lindisfarne castle out on the horizon. This place really a special site, and you can feel that energy as walk through this astounding castle. I walked down to the beach which protects the Castle from many angles, and went for a wee saunter. Oh no! That’s twice I’ve used my favorite word, I hope John doesn’t notice : ) The beach was gorgeous and is covered in sand dunes to explore. It was also full of dogs, which I was all for that!
While walking the beach, the dark winter night was quickly setting in and the stunning views were disappearing for a few hours atleast. Time to get to my B&B and rest up for my visit to the Roman Fort the next day
Housesteads Roman Fort
Visiting Housestead Roman Fort
This day is probably the one I had been most looking forward to. I am absolutely fascinated with Roman history, constantly wondering what it would have been like to be a part of that very powerful and conquering empire.
When John had mentioned I was heading to, not just one, but TWO roman forts! I thought Christmas had come early. The first of which was named Housesteads Roman Fort.
A part of the Roman frontier of Hadrian’s Wall, the construction of this fort, originally named Vercovicium, began around 122-32, the same time the Wall (sounds like something out Game of Thrones) began its dividing line across the landscape.
Hadrians Wall at Housestead Roman Site
The same as before happened as I parked up, and ran past the ticket office staff shouting “TAKE MA MONEY!!” They have a brilliant little museum displaying some incredibly detailed finds of old pillars, statues and clothing during excavations.
The short film they have is also very informative and really brings a sense of realism when you eventually wander around the fort.
Following the path from the visitor center to the fort, my giddiness is beaming through the smile spinning across my face from ear to ear. Then I step through the gate…
At once, your imagination can’t help but picture the bustling streets and small avenues of the fort filled with legionaries and centurions commanding their army with building, cleaning, and cooking tasks for the day.
Stepping up to the Nothern Gate of the fort, it felt strange. Especially since this was one of the days it was shrouded in fog, adding to that mysterious atmosphere. Knowing that most of the troops standing guard at this point would have felt a twinge of fear looking North into those unforgiving lands of Barbarians. Wait a minute! We were the Barbarians, the ancient people of Scotland would have been the ferocious people the Romans didn’t want to come south. Aww well, unlucky for them, as I’m already here.
Housesteads Roman Fort was definitely a highlight of this adventure so far, but it was about to get even better.
Vindolanda Roman Frontier
Roman building remains at Vindolanda Roman Site
A short drive away from the previous stop, you end up at one of the largest sites left behind by the Romans. Vindolanda Roman Frontier has the best museum displaying Roman artefacts I have ever been to. None is more impressive than the Vindolanda Tablets, which were at the time of discovery the oldest surviving handwritten documents in Britain.
I felt very privileged to have seen these remarkable fragments of vital information, providing glimpses into what life would have been like living and working at this fort.
The detail is awe-inspiring. What the tablets read is thought-provoking, and I still haven’t stepped outside to the fort yet! There are still excavations taking place at Vindolanda, and this vital work is carried out by the Vindolanda Trust.
Carvings in the stone dating to approx 2000 years ago
What caught me off guard with this site is the sheer scale of it. It is HUGE!! Wandering through its old streets, you start to grasp the sense of life that was once here.
And apparantly, according to one of their guides, they estimate that only about 20% of this whole site has been discovered!
Constantly going through my head are thoughts of “who lived here at these barracks?”, “What centurion did they take orders from?”, “How much bread was baked in the old bakery?”, “How many arses have graced that communal latrine?!”. These are the secrets buried in each split of rock in the foundations that will remain unknown to everyone.
And then an overwhelming feeling of sadness came over me when I walked past the child’s grave that was found beneath one of the barracks. Now my thoughts were “What happened to this poor child?”, “Were they taken by some unknown infection or disease? Or met by an even more brutal fate that led to them being hidden away from prying eyes?”
After spending a lot of time ambling around the site, I decided it was time to head home, via another spot I’d never been to before.
Jedburgh Abbey
Jedburgh Abbey in the fog
After travelling through what felt like the world's largest patch of fog!! I eventually broke free of the atmospheric scene and crossed back over the border into Home.
I don’t know why but I kept getting funny looks from the drivers that went past. Doesn’t every Scottish person have blue and white paint on their face whilst crossing back into their Homeland?
Not too far away from the border is the stunningly attractive Royal burgh of Jedburgh. King Alexander II bestowed this Royal status onto the town in 1214. And Jedburgh Abbey was definitely fitting for the Royal title.
David I and the Bishop of Glasgow John decided to build Jedburgh Abbey on this site in 1138, as there was most certainly a Christian establishment here dating back to the 9th century.
Jedburgh Abbey
Low-and-behold, I was back in the fog, but it definitely added to the atmosphere of the now-ruined abbey remains. From the carpark, the silhouette of the abbey stood proudly above the rest of the town, showing off its grand pillars and intricately detailed window frames.
Unfortunately, the site is undergoing some assessments for the safety of the building so I couldn’t get into the abbey fully. I could still wander around the buildings and gardens the priests used for hundreds of years. Still, the grandeur of the building was not lost. It was elegantly beautiful.
Again, just like the other sites I had been to over the past couple of days, I could really sense that Royal status that had been granted to this amazing place.
Thankfully no ghosts graced their presence when I was wandering around. Thanks to the fog I did feel like something might lurking around, waiting to catch me off-guard. It was getting late and dark so from there I returned to my car and wound my way home over the hills and through the city of Glasgow.
The site of seeing those familiar lights did bring that sense of home, just as much as the rolling mountains off in the distance did when I climbed out of the car for the last time in this adventure.
I hope enjoy this sauntering around as much as I did, and I hope it can inspire you to grow that bucket list even longer. Trust me, I know the struggle, my list is like 10 pages long!
Leave a Comment Below and Let us Know Where you’d like us to Visit Next
Thank you
Thank you for taking the time to read this blog post. Stay tuned over the next couple of weeks as I will continue these wee excursions all over the country.
If you enjoyed it, please share the blog post far and wide on social media! Leave us a comment below with your thoughts on what you would like to read next.